Journey2textile

Warping

What is Warping | Requirements of Warping | Faults of warping

Warping is the parallel winding of yarn from cone or cheese package on to a warp beam.The operation of winding warp yarns onto a beam usually in preparation for slashing, weaving, or warp knitting. Also called warping.

Requirements of Warping

The tension of the wound ends must be uniform and constant during all times of withdrawal from supply package
Warping should not impair the physical and mechanical properties of yarn
The tension should be moderate to enable the yarn to retain its elastic property completely
Predetermined length of the yarn should be observed
The production rate of warping should be high
The surface of warping package must be cylindrical

Faults of warping

Warp off center of the beam
Ridgy or uneven warp beam
Cress ends
Snarl is the warp
Missing ends
Unequal length of warp
Hard beam
Unequal size or weight if package

Features of High Speed Warping | Features of Sectional Warping | Differences Between Sectional and High Speed Warping

High speed warping

Creel

↓

Beam for sizing

↓

Weaver’s Beam

In high speed warping the yarn is wound parallel on the warping beam. All the yarns are wound at once and simple flanged beam is used. It is a very high speed process and is used for making fabric of single colour.

Features of High speed warping

It is used to make common fabrics in large quantities
It is used to produce weavers beam from single yarn
The production is high
Large amount of yarn is required to produce a weavers beam
Sizing is done
Simple flanged beam is used and drums are not required

Sectional Warping

Creel

↓

Drum

↓

Beam (Weaver’s Beam)

In sectional warping equal length of yarn is first wound in small sections or sheets on a drum. Then from the drum it is transferred to the beam. By this process we directly get the weavers beam. This is a two stage method and is used for making fancy fabrics.

Features of sectional warping

This is suitable for making checked, stripped or other fancy fabric.
We directly obtain weaver’s beam from this process
As sizing is not done, so multi-ply yarns or yarns which do not require sizing are used
Small amount of yarn is required to produce the weaver’s beam
Sectional warping is used to produce a warp beam with a greater member if ends
The production is less in sectional warping
The yarn tension is less uniform
It is less efficient than high speed warping

Differences between Sectional and high speed warping

High Speed Warping	Sectional Warping

Used to produce common fabric	Used to produce fancy fabrics
Production is high	Production is low
Large amount of yarn is required	Small amount of yarn is required
Weavers beam is produced after sizing	Weavers beam is directly produced
Cone and cheese is used	Flanged bobbin or drum is used
The process is cheap	The process is expensive
High creel capacity	Low creel capacity
Most commonly use	Rarely used

Warping Machine | Components of a Warping Machine | Components of Creel | Components of Headstock

The operation of winding warp yarns onto a beam usually in preparation for slashing, weaving, or warp knitting. Also called warping. In a word, Warping is the parallel winding of yarn from cone or cheese package on to a warp beam. Warping Process are done by different types of Warping Machine. The main parts of warping machine are given below.

Components of a Warping Machine

The warping machine is mainly divided into two major components

Creel
Headstock

Components of Creel

yarn clearer
stop device
indicator
tensioners
yarn guide
package base
blower or suction fan

Components of Headstock

adjustable V-wraith
measuring and marking device
yarn speed controlling device
pneumatic or hydraulic pressure unit
break assembly
driving drum
stop motion
building drum
beam bracket
lease rod

Fabric Structure and Design

Classification Of Basic Woven Structure

The form of interlacing of warp and weft yarns can be divided basically into three categories- plain, twill and satin/sateen weave. These three kinds of forms are called basic weaves.

1. Plain weave: The simplest of all weaves is the plain weave. Each filling yarn passes alternately over and under one warp yarn. Each warp yarn passes alternately over and under each filling yarn. Some examples of plain-weave fabric are crepe, taffeta, organdy, and muslin. The plain weave may also have variations, which include the following:

* Warp rib weave- Warp rib weaves may be described as plain weave in which two or more picks are inserted in the same shed. Warp rib weaves are normally used in warp faced constructions. The warp cover factor and the warp crimp are substantially higher than the weft cover factor and the weft crimp. The intention is to produce fabrics with prominent weft-way rib formed by the crowns of the warp threads.

* Weft rib weave- Weft rib may be described as plain weave in which two or more ends weave together as one. It is difficult to achieve very high weft cover factors in weft faced plain-weave cloths. By using two finer ends weaving as one, it becomes possible to achieve higher weft cover factor. Such cloths are expensive to weave and not very common.

* Basket, matt or hopsack weave- In matt, basket or hopsack weaves two or more ends and two or more picks weave as one. The simplest and commonest of these weave is 2/2 matt.

(Refer to Annex 2 for weave diagrams)

2. Twill weave: A weave that repeats on 3 or more ends and picks & produces diagonal lines on the face of the fabric. A twill weave is characterized by diagonal rib (twill lines) on the face of the fabric. These twill lines are produced by letting all warp ends interlace in the same way but displacing the interlacing points of each end by one pick relative to that of the previous end. In twill weave line moves sinisterly (Right - Left, Z twill) and dextrally (Left - Right, S twill). Common derivatives of twill weave are as follows:

* Zigzag weave- If the direction of the diagonal in a twill fabric is reversed periodically across the width, a zigzag effect is produced. Zigzag weave is achieved by simply combining two S and Z twill weaves of equal repeat.

* Diamond weave- Diamond weaves are achieved by combining two symmetrical zigzag weaves of equal repeat. Diamond designs are vertically and horizontally symmetrical.

* Herringbone weave- In Herringbone weave also the twill direction is reversed periodically like zigzag weave but at the point of reversal the order of interlacement is also reversed and then twill line commence as usual.

* Diaper weave- Diaper weaves are produced when we combine two Herringbone designs. Diaper designs are diagonally symmetrical. (Refer to Annex 2 for weave diagrams)

3. Satin/sateen weave: The satin weave is characterized by floating yarns used to produce a high luster on one side of a fabric. Warp yarns of low twist float or pass over four or more filling yarns. The low twist and the floating of the warp yarns, together with the fiber content, give a high degree of light reflection. Weights of satin fabrics range from chiffon satin to heavy duchesse satin. The sateen weave is similar to a satin construction except that in the sateen weave, the filling yarns float and are visible on the surface of fabric. Examples: cotton sateen, and damask.

Definition, Characteristics and Classification of Twill Weave

Twill weaves are the weaves that find a wide range of application. They can be constructed in a variety

of ways. The main feature of these weaves that distinguishes from other types is the presence of

pronounced diagonal lines that run along the width of the fabric.

The basic characteristics of twill weaves are :

(i) They form diagonal lines from one selvedge to another.

(ii) More ends per unit area and picks per unit area than plain cloth.

(iii) Less binding points than plain cloth

(iv) Better cover than plain weave

(v) More cloth thickness and mass per unit area

Classification of Twill Weave

The twill weaves are produced in a wide variety of forms. They are however classified broadly into

important categories, namely :

(i) Ordinary or continuous twills

(ii) Zig zag , pointed or wavy twills

(iii) Rearranged twills such as satin/sateen weaves and corkscrew weaves

(iv) Combination twills

(v) Broken twills

(vi) Figured and other related twill weaves

The above types of twills are further subclassified as:

(a) Warp face twills

(b) Weft face twills

End Uses of Twill Weaves

Twill weaves find a wide range of application such as drill cloth, khakhi uniforms, denim cloth, blankets,
shirtings, hangings and soft furnishings.

Definition, Characterestics and uses of honey comb

The honey comb weaves derive their name from their partial resemblance to the hexagonal honey comb

cells of wax in which bees store their honey. These weaves form ridges and hollows which give a cell

like appearance to the textures. Both warp and weft threads float somewhat on both sides, which coupled

with the rough structure, renders this class of fabric readily absorbent of moisture. The weaves are of

two classes, namely,

(i) Ordinary honey comb or honey comb proper

(ii) Brighton honey comb

Ordinary honey comb

These weaves are characterized by the following features

(a) Cell like appearance with ridges and hollows

(b) Single line crossing a single line or double line crossing a double diagonal line

(d) Moisture absorbent due to floats

(e) Constructed with pointed drafts

(f) A reversible fabric having similar effect on both sides.

Brighton honey comb

These weaves are characterized by the following features :

(a) Non-reversible cloths in which face appears different from back side of the cloth

(b) Constructed on straight drafts only

(d) Length of longest float is N/2 – 1, where N is the repeat size

(e) A single diagonal line crosses a double diagonal line

(f) Formation of 4 cells per repeat i.e., two large and two small cells (ordinary honey comb forms

only one cell per repeat)

(g) The number of threads in a repeat must be a multiple of 4.

End uses

The fabrics constructed from honey comb weaves have more thread floats on both sides and have a

rough structure. This renders more absorption of moisture.

The weaves are, therefore, suitable for towels and also in various forms for bed covers and quilts.

Flow Chart for Specification & Quality Parameters

Quality is unusually slippery and difficult to come to grip with. Therefore some might say “Quality is something I know when I see it. To some Quality is difficult to be explained like love or happiness. Once the concept of Quality is understood fundamentally it stops being slippery and becomes something which can hold by its tail.

Flow Chart for Specification & Quality Parameters

The best money can buy
Meeting a specification or conformance to specifications.
Craftsmanship
The degree of excellence that an item possesses.
Product with no defect found
Absence of variation in its broad sense.
Meeting or exceeding customer expectation.

These responses depend on people’s perception of the value of a product or service under consideration

and their explanation of performance, durability, reliability etc. of that product or service.

According to dictionary Quality is: - an essential character: nature, an ingredient or distinguishing

attribute: property, a character trait, superiority of kind, degree of grade or excellence.

Different people have different views about quality.

· The best money can buy

· Meeting a specification or conformance to specifications.

· Craftsmanship

· The degree of excellence that an item possesses.

· Product with no defect found

· Absence of variation in its broad sense.

· Meeting or exceeding customer expectation.

These responses depend on people’s perception of the value of a product or service under consideration

and their explanation of performance, durability, reliability etc. of that product or service.

Process Flow Chart of Carded Yarn

Combed yarn is most precious, finer and thiner than the carded yarn. Because the Carded Yarn is produced by following some less manufacturing steps than the Combed Yarn.

So let us know about the carded yarn manufacturing.

Flow Chart of Carded Yarn Manufacturing:

Input Material ———Processing Machines ——–Output Materials

Raw Cotton >>>>> Blow Room>>>>>>Lap

Lap>>>>>>>>>>>Carding>>>>>>>>>Carded Sliver

Carded Sliver>>>>Drawing 1>>>>>>>>Drawn Sliver

Breaker Sliver>>>Drawing 2>>>>>>>>Finisher Drawn Sliver

Finisher Drawn Sliver>>Simplex/ Speed Frame>>>>Roving

Roving>>>>>>>>Ring Frame>>>>>>>Yarn

Yarn>>>>>>>>>Winding>>>>>>>>>Yarn In Large Package.

The process flowchart of Yarn Manufacturing mentioning above is currently followed by the Textile Spinning Mills.

Process Flow Chart Of Sewing Thread

A thread is a large number of very thin fibers spun together, used in the manufacture of textiles and in sewing. Or In hardware a thread is used to connect two things together, such as a screw to a piece of wood or two segments of a hose.

The process flow chart for the manufacture of sewing threads is shown in the flowchart.

Functions of various machines in sewing thread manufacturing process:

Yarn singeing

Sewing thread must be singed to ensure that the projecting fibres do not interfere with downstream processing. Percentage of singeing can be achieved varied by varying the yarn collection speed. Hair removal efficiency at singeing machine is normally 30 - 50%. Flame temperature is around 800 oC. Singeing is mainly done in Cotton Sewing Threads.

Features

• The heart of the machine - the burner, serves to singe reliably the projecting fibres of yarn running through at high speed, without inflicting burns on yarn itself. There is a choice between the gas burner and the electric burner. Gas burner are widely used. The gas burner consumes about 55 gm of natural, propane or butane gas an hour, depending on singeing rate and yarn type.

• Speed: 300-1200 m/min.

Hank to cone winding

• Conversion of hank in to cone of suitable weight

• Waxing for reducing co-officient of friction in sewing thread .

Features of new machines:

• Twin Input Rollers: At the front of the head are the twin-input rollers, set to a fixed speed but proportional to the winding speed. The main functions of this unit are to eliminate unwanted tensions prior to yarn entering waxing unit.

• The speed of machine ranging from 400-700 mpm, with possible traverse from150-200 mm.

Polishing

Some threads for special end uses like leather industries, bag stitching, kite flying are treated with starch, softeners, whitener, etc on this machine. Cooked starch is mixed with other chemicals and different recipes are made for different qualities depending on the end uses.

Main objectives of polishing are:

• Extra ordinary smooth surface

• Thread becomes round.

• Stiffness increases.

• Increase in tensile strength (7-10%).

Cross winding and lubrication

• Winding in various types of sewing thread packages like cone, cop , tube, ball, vicone and spool.

• Threads are treated with special waxes for achieving best workability during sewing operation.

• Lick roller lubrication is applied on industrial sewing thread where thread has to run on high speed sewing machine; the basic ingredient of the most of the lubricants is parafin wax. Although silicones are also used because of their stability to heat and various additives are also included to give some special properties.

Geometry of packages

Threads are wound in many forms. Small length spools are employed in retail store distribution, whereas somewhat larger spools are used to a limited extent industrially. Some of the very fine soft threads are wound on cones, very coarse soft threads are in skein form, but the largest proportion by far is wound on the one headed tube with base or straight tubes. These packages in some instances are put on a weight basis; however, the larger percentage is marked on a length basis. Ready-wound bobbins in a number of styles to accommodate the various sewing machines employed are also available. Cross winding threads are generally laid in with traverse ratio 1: 6 (one double traverse = six spindle revolution) and 1: 4 for coarser counts.

The following types of packages are used in sewing threads (with commonly used dimensions).

Spool: Spools are small flanged plastic or wooden bobbins, they are both with tapered (so-called Diabolo spools) and straight flanges. Mainly parallel winding (because side unwinding is easy) is done. Cross-windings are also possible on the spools. They contain relatively short length of 100-500 meter thread. The length of traverse on spool is 2.9-3.8 cm.

End uses: Upholstery, footwear, leather goods manufacturing, and in hand sewing operations.

Cop:

Cops are small cylindrical flangeless spools, with precision cross winding. They are mostly made of paper and plastic. They are of two types, small Cop (Tube) and medium Cop (Cop). The lack of flanges facilitates regular off winding on industrial sewing machines although their small diameter makes them less well suited to the faster thread take off machines. Smaller Cops are popular make-up in fashion trades, where a variety of shades are used and production runs for any one colour or style of garments. The length of thread wound ranges from 100-2000 m on small cop and 400-4000 m on cop. The length of traverse on small cop is 5 - 6.3 cm and on cop is10 cm.

End uses: Kite flying, Upholstery, ready-made garment, tailoring, hosiery, umbrella, and shoe stitching

Cone:

This is self-supporting, cross wound conical package. It is easier to withdraw yarn over end from a cone than from a cheese and because of this, cone is more widely used. They contain relatively long lengths 1000-25000 m with length of traverse ranging from 10-15 cm. They give trouble free thread unwinding at intermittent or continuous high speeds. Cones are the most economical packages for conventional sewing threads in situations where thread consumption is high and production runs are long.

End uses: ready made garment, tailoring, hosiery, leather stitching, Upholstery, shoe stitching, denim, embroidery, and kite flying.

Vicone or King Spool:

Vicones are parallel tubes or low angled cones with an additional base in the form of a raised flange, which may incorporate a small tip. The build of vicone depends on the exact conformity of the taper with the angle of vicone’s base. Coarse yarns require a large traverse for the taper -- fine yarn a small one. They contain lengths of 1000-5000 m with length of traverse 6.5-9 cm.

End uses: embroidery, core-spun, and filament threads .

Prewound Bobbin:

Prewound bobbins are precision parallel wound thread package designed to replace metal bobbins on a variety of lock stitch machines.

Skein:

A very small hank of soft twisted plied thread (around 8 m) of coarse count, is parallel wound with the help rotating flyer, which withdraws the thread from the supply package cone.

End uses: embroidery.

Ball:

A typical ball like structure, wound with the help of four types of different winding. They are: Rough base winding, form winding, surface layer winding, and circumference winding. The initial winding provides firmness at the base. Next winding process makes space for placing the identification ticket. The third stage of winding provides firm gripping of the ticket. The last stage of winding makes a band over the ball, which retains its shape. An easy unwinding of thread is possible.

End uses: embroidery, fishing net and bag closing.

Cocoon:

Cocoons are self-supporting i.e. center-less thread package specially designed for the insertion in the shuttle of multi needle quilting and some types of embroidery. Cocoons are used in the shuttle of multi needle quilting and some types of embroidery machines.

Journey2textile

Labels

Pages

Technology

Google Translate

Breaking News